Here's to Ramadan

As I flipped through the Frommer's Guide to Morocco in a bookstore before my departure from the States, I found some excellent summaries of Idrissid rule and suggestions for quality budget hotels. Then I saw the following bolded comment (and I paraphrase): DO NOT TRAVEL IN MOROCCO DURING RAMADAN. I put down Frommer's and bought the Lonely Planet (which is great by the way). We are so lucky to be here during Ramadan. Frommer's lost my business because it is written for an audience planning a short Moroccan vacation. Its cautionary comment makes sense for those coming for a brief stay: resteraunts are closed (and beware if you eat on the streets-- you will be eyed by unhappy, hungry Moroccans, or worse)m operating hours of every business are significantly decreased and often subject to change by people who are too tired to workm some Moroccans are more on edge from the fast, etc.

But what an unbelievably incredible experience for those of us who get to witness one of the five pillars of Islam from near beginning to end-- and in a Muslim host family no less. From 4am s'hor, to witnessing mass exodus's to local mosques, to delicious speciualty foods, to learning more about Islam as a whole, Ramadan brings with it a totally unique perspective into the world of a religion that guides the lives of 99 percent of this country's population. The preparations for f'tor (break-fast at 6:30ish pm) occupy a woman's entire existence. I sat in my kitchen for six hours the other day with my host mother making shibekia- a carmelized Moroccan sweet special for Ramadan- a true bonding experience. Speaking of which, this this the first time after growing up in a liberal American home that I have felt completely comfortable, even happy, hanging around the kitchen with a group of women. I enjoy the chattering company and humor that accompanies such an experience here. I much prefer this to the wallowing hunger that consumes the men as they lie around bored all day.

To Alex (for those of you who read only my blog, check out a cool article on Ramadan in Morocco at http://www.global-lab.org/mt/MoroccoFall2007/2007/09/ramadan_reflections.html#more): cheers to setting me up for Ramadan in Morocco. Surely the nature of Ramadan interferes with the daily schedule of the rest of the year, and often creates scheduling problems. But in the most laid back and wonderful sort of way. Thank you.

lauren