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I am confronting the eternal struggle between the photographer and the subject: the moments that I most want to capture are often the most inappropriate moments. The smells that dominate this country- musky, fruity, pungent, fragrant, sour, smoky, salty, spicy, putrid, burning, delicious, divine- are impossible to transport. I have no problem opting to record with my memory and live in the present rather than hide behind my camera. But surely it will not be so simple when I begin to edit my film in the future. Without the most beatiful and meaningful moments on tape, how will I convey my experience to you?
***
Fes is an astonishing city. The old medina where i live is mostly the same as it was when it was built in the 800s BC. It stands in dire contrast to the ville nouvelle (new french city) where I study darija. Still, mules occupy the streets of the ville nouvelle and advanced nikon cameras can be purchased on every other corner of the old medina.
***
If you enter the old medina at Bab Ziat and walk along thedirt and stone road, past a small hanut sellling everything from Tide to khubs, take your second right, walk down the hill past a small local mosque, smell spices and delicious tajines emanating from every door and window, and turn to your left after the big pile of manuer on your right, you will find the home of Fatima, Abderrahim, Otman(17), and Ahmed (14) Elaamouri in the second floor apartment of the sandstone building in front of you. Nothing on the facade stands out. Rather, it blends in with similar tan and white colors that surround you from every direction. Walk up to the front door and ring the doorbell. I dare you. Most likely, a speaker to your right will ring out in a high, raspy voice, ¨skun?¨ (who?). Say your name. Within 30 seconds, the door in front of you will swing open to reveal an empty hallway. Step inside... ¨Rarrrrrr!!!¨, Ahmed will jump out as he roars. You will undoubtedly scream. You have given him a good laugh. Once his joke is done, he will smile, grab your hand, and drag you upstairs with a huge smile on his face. One of the most hospitable families in the world will greet you on the second floor. Abderrahim will immediately begin to train you in the sounds of darija, and will stick with you no matter how incapable you are: ka, ke, ko, ku, qa, qe, qo, qu, 3a, 3e; 3o, 3u, etc, while Fatima lays out a feast before you and Otman smiles from his perch in front of the TV. Welcome to my host family.
***
For the past two days, I have woken up with my family for s'hor at 4 am (dinner before the call to prayer at 4:35ishthat begins the day's fast). We all grogily pile into the kitchen, lazily smiling, and I have to try harder than ever to pay attention when I am spoken to. My darija isn't so good at 4am. Luckily for me, neither is anyone else's, and they have for the most part resorted to short commands like ¨kuli kuli¨-eat, eat (for Xi'aners, I still have not escaped the good old ¨chi le, chi le!¨, and here too they try to convince me that I need to fatten up). Once we have eaten our fill we line up at the sink and each down three cups of water as my host mom watches over our shoulders to make sure we don't skimp out on our full helpings. Once done, I return to my beautifully tiled room and lie in bed awake until I hear ällah hu akbar¨. Then I fall back into a deep and wonderful sleep.
5 comments:
Lauren: Fes is one of the most beautiful and mysterious cities I have ever visited. I will never forget exploring the shuk (with a guide, of course -- it is too serpentine to explore alone, and also not a safe place for a woman/women alone) -- and the aroma of the spices, the stink of the tanneries. When we were there, Amy and I stayed at the Palais Jamai, an unbelievable place. The couple who owned the gift shop found out we were Jewish and took us on a tour of Fes' Jewish remnants -- a small school, an old synagogue. Maybe that couple is still there? Cheryl
Hi Lauren and Cheryl,
The Jewish family that owns/runs that gift shop in Palais Jamais is Ellen Beth's contact in Fes. That is who she recommended contacting while you are there. Beautiful description, Lauren! Love, Mom
about moments,
everything you record will look interesting. that's just the nature of film/video. you can recreate, those moments that are hard to film by putting together other things you filmed.
and the other option: feel really embarrassed and intrusive, but end up with something really cool.
keep eating.
(last night was the mid-autumn festival. needless to say, the family i ate with didn't seem to understand my chinese when it came the phrase, "I'm full.")
Hey Lauren,
This blog is amazing. Thank you for putting this up, I cannot get enough of this. I can almost see you with your host family, this is so descriptive. I am eagerly awaiting the next entry, in almost the same way that any American 6-year-old from the 1950's awaits the next week's issue of their favorite comic book.
Please keep writing, and I will talk to you soon.
-Ben Ginsburg
Lauren.
lebess? wesh kulu mezienne? I haven't spoken darija in ages and thus I've forgotten most of it and I confuse it with my ammiya from Egypt. Regardless, Fes is a wonderfuly cool city. We stayed in the ville nouvelle. Technically, non-Moroccans are not supposed to be allowed in the medina without a payed guide. Or so they say. It could very well just be a scam to get people to hire guides. Of course with 65% unemployement for young adults, maybe that's not a bad thing. Are you ever going to spend time in Rabat? I loved Rabat. Fes is cool, very Arab, and when you visit Marrakech you'll understand what I mean by that because Marrakech is much more Berber.
If you get a chance you should visit Volublis, the Roman ruins near Moulay Idriss. Moulay Idriss is a really neat town, it's a pilgrimage site and it is BEAUTIFUL.
Wow.. I am so excited for you, I miss l-Maghreb! Good luck with the Darija.
Max
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